새로운 방식의 마찰 매듭
이게 새로운 건지, 아니면 제게 새로운 건지 모르겠지만
프루직 매듭의 결핍(!)을 해결할려는 많은 시도가 있습니다.
누군가는 결핍을 인식하고, 대안을 모색하고, 테스팅하고. 폐기하거나 소개하고...
프루직 매듭은 과연 유용한가. 스토릭박사의 의견 .. http://www.re-rock.com/744
프루직 매듭 대신에 오토블랙 매듭을 ....... http://www.re-rock.com/812
ㅁㅁㅁㅁㅁㅁㅁㅁㅁㅁㅁ
이 매듭법의 장점은
- 마찰력과 핸들링이 좋다(심지어 와이어에서도 작동)
- 봉제선부분은 뻣뻣하기에 옭매듭을 하면 쉽게 옭매듭을 할 수 있고, 충격을 먹은후에도 잘 풀린다.
- 완제품 슬링은 프루직매듭의 제일약한 부분인 매듭부분이 없어 강도가 강하다.
- 프루직매듭은 따로 코드를 가지고 다녀야 하지만, 이 매듭은 그럴 필요가 없다.
- 설치하기가 쉽다.
- 점점 가늘어지는 로프에도 마찰력과 핸들링이 좋다.
- 주마링할 때 티블록정도의 기능이 있고. 로프에 훨씬 부담을 안준다.
원문은
more..
The FB-sling friction knot, tied with a sewn sling, offers some advantages over a common Prusik knot:
- Greatly increased friction (even jams on steel wire)
- An overhand knot tied close to the sewn junction provides a loop that stays open due to the stiffness of the seam. This eases the tying of the knot, and also unjams the knot after the load is released allowing the knot to be moved without further interaction
- A sewn sling is stronger than a tied Prusik sling as there is no knot to pose a weak point or come undone
- Instead of carrying knotted Prusik slings, a 60cm sewn sling can be used. A rope fixation can be set up very quickly, and it provides better handling and friction. This is especially important for the thin ropes used nowadays. Passing braking knots during self-rescue from crevasses works similar quickly to a Tibloc, but is more gentle to the rope.
한편,
 오토블락매듭(프렌치 프루직) |  클렘하이스트 매듭 |  바흐만 매듭 |
비슷비슷하지만, 조금 다릅니다. 작은차이 큰기쁨이 새로움을 모색하는 이가 누리는 희열이죠.
more..
French Prusik
This is the most commonly used prusik knot. It is quick to tie and doesn't jam. Most climbers would use one of these attached to a leg loop to protect an abseil. It is tied by making 4 or 5 wraps around the rope, and then clipping the two ends into a karabiner.
Kleimheist
The kleimheist is tied in the same way as the French prusik, except that when it is clipped into a karabiner one end is first threaded through the other. it is best to thread the lower end through the upper as this creates more leverage and gives the knot greater holding power - which is its advantage over the French prusik. It is difficult to release under load, which makes it less suitable as an abseil backup.
Bachman knot
If you have enough equipment with you the Bachman is a useful prusik to know. It is easy to slide up and down the rope, but locks hard when you load the end.
아래에 이 매듭과 비교되는 또다른 매듭 헤덴매듭을 올려봅니다.
아래에는 미국의 클라이머들이 이 매듭을 놓고서 벌이는 이야기입니다.
그들의 이야기를 읽는 것만으로도 대리만족이 되네요. 원문만 일단 올립니다.☞
more..
 The FB-Sling friction knot, knotted with a sewn sling,offers some advantagesover a common Prusik knot:  Greaetly increased friction A Overhand knot tied close to the sewn junktion provides a loop that staysopen due to the stiffness of the seam.This eases the tying of the Knot, and also unjams the knot after releasing the load; it may then bemoved without furter interaction. The knot of a tied prusik sling no longer poses a weak point and cannot becom undone.( The sling in the picture is 60cm long ) |
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http://gudelius.de/alpinesite.htm
http://www.gudelius.de/fb3.htm
http://www.gudelius.de/index.htm
http://www.supertopo.com/climb ··· 82997
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/a ··· ote-9
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